Just wanted to share how I build my beds and drainage. This technique is perfect for the "mandro" method...
soil and water...
I've included some photos that are from a recent rush job... they are not exactly to the spec's instructed here
but they will give you a basic idea of what your beds should look like at the important steps.
What you'll need:
A measuring tape
2'x4' stock (12' for a 3x3 bed, 16' for a 4x4, etc)
1'x4' stock (16 for a 3x3 bed, 20' for a 4x4, etc)
4 3" or 4" heavy-duty casters
1 shop-sink drain assembly 2.5"
1 2" holesaw
1 or more heavy-duty tarps or vinyl (should be real rugged, thick)
2.5" Drywall/wood screws
2 or more tubes of Henri's Clear Roof Patch
1 8'x4' sheet of .75" compressed particle board or plywood.
The materials above vary depending on how many beds you are building, and the size, but I'll assume you want to
build 3 4x4 beds for an area that is four feet wide and thirteen feet long.
So, to begin...
1. Carefully cut an 8' piece of 2x4 into 2 even lengths, 4' each.
2. Cut a 4' by 4' piece out of your sheet of plywood or pressboard.
3. Using the 2" screws, attach the 2 4' pieces of 2x4 to the bottom side of the
pressboard, each piece on an opposite side, flush with the edge of the plywood. You will now have a 4' piece of
plywood with 2 "rails" down opposing sides.
4. Cut 2 more pieces of 2x4, this time making them 3' 5", so they fit on the 2 remaining sides, between the
existing rails. Attach them with screws and now you have a surface piece mounted on 4 pieces of wood making a
square on the underside.
5. Using your holesaw, cut a 2" hole at the approximate center of the surface.
6. Cut a 4'6" x 4'6" square piece of tarp/vinyl and using a staple gun, attached it to the bottom of the wood
frame on one side, so that only 3" of vinyl is wrapping past the edge and around to the bottom. This will leave
enough to wrap it around the opposing edge, pull it taught across the surface of your bed and securely staple
along the edges. You should now have a square wood frame with a surface piece lined on the topside with vinyl
or tarp, with a 2" hole in the middle. You can use an exacto or razor knife to eliminate any extra or pile-up.
7. Cut 2 49.5 inch pieces of 1x4 and 2 48" pieces of 1x4.
8. Attach the 49.5" pieces using the 2" screws to opposite edges of the box, so that the 1x4 edging protrudes
about 2" above the surface of the bed. The 48" pieces will fit on the remaining edges creating a flush "lip"
around the edge of the bed.
9. You should now have a wood frame with a piece of surface ply attached to it, drilled in the center, with a
sheet of vinyl pulled taught across the top, secured to the frame, a 2" lip on all sides made of 1x4 trim.
10. Flip the box over, and using more 1" screws, attach 4 4" casters to the 4 corners of the wood frame.
11. Flip the bed back over, and using a caulking gun, lay a fat .25-.5" bead of Henri's roof patch around the
inner edge of the beds where the plastic/tarp meets the 1x4 trim, creating a water tight seal. It is ok for
this to get messy and use your fingers as long as you get it sealed. The cleaner, neater, more thorough job you
do, the longer you beds will last.
12. Using your fingers, take the drain spout and shov it through the vinyl (or cut out the hole), attached the
fastening ring on the bottom side, and now you have a drain in the middle of your bed, which is on wheels,
lined, roof-patched, and ready to go.
So my 4x4 beds hold about 4-6 12" pots in full bloom, are easily rolled out, and drain into little 4" high
busbins that cost about 50 cents each at Wal-Mart.
So my 4x4 beds hold about 4-6 12" pots in full bloom, are easily rolled out, and drain into little 4" high
busbins that cost about 50 cents each at Wal-Mart.
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