This is the latest issue provided by the Inner circle at Advanced nutrients. Knowing and using this type information everyday in all growing projects, has helped us to enter the commercial arena, growing quality produce.
Thought this info would be a big help to those of you who are starting your quest for hydro growing heaven.
We have many old issues, and plan on providing these as regularly as possible. Watch for back issues.
Currently doing extensive test grows with a commercial style blend and hopeful of developing our own hydro label. We are in our 2nd year of testing.
Our Blends consists of 3 parts...Of Course!
part 1: Chelated trace minerals (Liquid Gallon)
part 2: Nitrates, and chelated iron (water soluble greenhouse grade powder blend)
part 3: Sulphates - Phosphates (water soluble greenhouse grade powder blend)
Custom mixes will be available. Enjoy the read. I am sure you all will. Merry Xmas
December 2007 #1 - Issue Twenty Bigger Yields - A digest of hydroponics information to help you do a better job of growing from seedling to harvest.
Each issue of
Bigger Yields contains solutions for hydroponics problems and techniques to help you grow healthier, more productive crops. The information is primarily non-commercial and general in nature.
You are qualified to receive Bigger Yields without any obligation or cost as a member of our Inner Circle of Hydroponics Growers. If you know of other hydroponics growers you feel should be receiving a free subscription, simply send us their name and e-mail address. Remember, there is never an obligation.
SETTING UP & MANAGING A RESERVOIR, PART 1
Most hydroponics systems, including flood/drain, drip, NFT and aeroponics, utilize a reservoir. This tank contains a re-circulating nutrient solution which is pumped either intermittently or continuously to the plants.
Because both the construction and maintenance of a reservoir are essential to maintaining a good feeding schedule, this issue of BIGGER YIELDS, as well as the next, will be devoted to this subject.
Article #1 - Setting up the Reservoir
The reservoir should be made of a material that will not react with the nutrient solution and is light-proof. It should also be able to hold a sufficient supply of nutrients for your crop.
A good rule of thumb is to choose a reservoir with a capacity of 100L for a 4'x4' growing area. It should also be a quality vessel that is both sturdy and leak-proof. You can imagine the damage that can be caused if a cheap reservoir becomes punctured or leaks.
Article #2 - Selecting the right pump
One important thing to remember is that any components of your reservoir system that come in contact with the nutrient solution, must be able to resist corrosion by acid or saline liquids. This is why stainless steel or resin coatings are often used.
Make certain your pump has been designed and certified for submersible or in-line usage. This will help guard against electrical shock. Also, make certain the pump is plugged into a grounded receptacle with a breaker or fuse. Don't take risks when working with a combination of water and electricity.
Click the above image for the world's first hydroponics encyclopedia. We call it Advancedepedia, and it's brimming with hot information you'll use to amplify your garden's growth and give you Bigger Yields. Article #3 - What you should know about submersible pumps 
A submersible pump is generally the easiest to use. You just connect the lines and drop it into your reservoir. Because a submersible has fewer connections outside the tank, there is less chance of leaks.
The biggest drawback to a submersible is that it often delivers less volume and pressure than an in-line centrifugal pump. They also tend to heat the nutrient solution which could be a problem in a warm growing environment. By the same token, it can also be a benefit when growing under cooler conditions.
Article #4 - A look at in-line pumps
This type of pump will generally deliver more pressure and higher flow rates than a similarly sized submersible. It also has less contact with your nutrient solution and consequently does not heat up the reservoir.
Another advantage is that the electrical cord does not come in contact with the solution, which minimizes the chance of an electrical shock. When using an in-line pump, install a pre-filter to keep debris from getting sucked into the pump and causing damage. A pre-filter is also recommended for a submersible.
Article #5 - Installing a float Valve
This is a relatively inexpensive optional item and well worth the time and money to install. The float valve will keep the tank topped off with fresh water or a mild nutrient solution.
Consistent toping-off helps stabilize the pH and EC levels which tend to change dramatically if this function is neglected. Without the float valve, you will have to maintain the fill-level manually on a daily basis.
The float valves are usually gravity fed from a separate cistern or reservoir. However, they can be plumbed directly into the main water system. The big danger here is that if the valve malfunctions or is defective, you could end up with a major flood.
To prevent this, float valves connected directly to the water supply are often outfitted with a timer and water solenoid valve. The timer turns on the fresh water for only a few minutes every hour. This is generally enough to top-off the reservoir and avoid major damage if the valve malfunctions.
Article #6 - Importance of pre-filters
As mentioned before, pumps should always be equipped with a pre-filter to keep debris from clogging or damaging the mechanism.
Select a pre-filter with a coarse enough screen to allow the free flow of your nutrient solution but still trap debris that's large enough to cause problems. The degree of filtration is mostly dependent on the type of growing system you use.
Drip emitters or sprayers will require finer filtration. More coarse filters can be used for ebb and flow tables.
Typical mesh diameters for hydroponics generally range from 50 to 150 microns. Most in-line filters used in pond and drip irrigation applications are suitable for hydroponics.
Article #7 - Setting up the delivery system
Rigid PVC and low density polyethylene are most often used in hydroponics because they are chemically inert materials. If bends or several connections are required before a straight run to beds, use a slightly larger diameter pipe before the run and a slightly smaller diameter through the run. This will help avoid restricting the flow or pressure.
For example, coming out of the reservoir where you have to use several bends, your PVC pipe might have a 3/4" diameter. However, for the straight runs you might reduce this diameter down to 1/2".
Always check new installations for leaks. Even a small drip can waste a lot of nutrient solution and cause puddles where they are not wanted.
In the next issue of BIGGER YIELDS, we will look at reservoir management techniques including aeration, mixing and reservoir chilling.
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