Techniques for starting seeds and taking cuttings

Midnight_Toker420

PROPAGATION
Propagation is the reproduction of plants, and is accomplished by two different means. One is by seeds or spores (the normal reproductive process of plants), the other is by vegetative propagation, which involves cuttings, layers, division, separation, or graftings.


SEEDS
The seeds of many annuals will germinate (sprout) readily when sown directly in the ground in spring. Other plants have seeds with hard seedcoats or dormancies that must be broken before they will grow. Methods of doing so include:


Nicking and Soaking: Large seeds often benefit from soaking in water overnight or until swollen. Some seeds, such as the mescal bean and large woodrose, will refuse to swell unless the seed coat is nicked or scratched first. With a knife, small file, or hacksaw blade, scrape away a small portion of the seedcoat on the side opposite the hilum or germ eye (the small dent where the seed sprouts). The hole should not be big, just large enough for water to enter during soaking.
When soaking any seed, be sure to plant it as soon as it is swollen, as some seeds will drown if left for long in the water.


Stratification: Some seeds need to be stratified before they will germinate. This process involves placing the seed in damp peat moss or sand, and storing at a low temperature until dormancy is broken.


Chemicals: Chemicals are sometimes used for seeds with hard seedcoats that are not affected by stratification or soaking. In nature, these seeds have their coats softened by the digestive juices of birds and animals that eat them. Acids such as vinegar, sulfuric acid, and gibberellic acid and alkalies like sodium hypochlorite (Clorox) are used. The seeds must be thoroughly washed after treatment.


Scalding Seeds: Other hard-shelled seeds, particularly in the bean family, are best treated with boiling water. To do this, place the seeds in a teacup, and pour boiling water over them. The water is allowed to cool and the seeds are soaked until they swell. This may be repeated with any seed that does not swell after the first time.


peat Moss: This is a very good medium in which to sprout seeds. Put some milled sphagnum moss (peat moss) in a plastic bag. Add water and knead thoroughly until the moss is uniformly damp. Fill a shallow pan or aluminum pie tin about 1 inch deep with the damp moss. Cover with plastic wrap, or a sheet of glass. Seeds may be started on the surface of the moss or buried in it; with or without bottom heat.


Bottom Heat: This hastens germination of many seeds. To provide bottom heat, take a strong corrugated cardboard box and turn it upside down with a 40-watt light inside. Cut slits or small holes in the bottom to let the heat through to the flats or seed pans. Be sure that the heat will not cook the seedlings, as different seed pans or flats transmit different amounts of heat.


When sowing seeds a general rule is to cover them with soil two or three times their thickness. Very small seeds, like coleus or tobacco, should be just slightly covered or pressed into the surface. Small seeds may also be mixed with sand to insure even distribution.
The soil for all seeds should be light and porous.
Seedlings should be transplanted after the second pair of true leaves opens. Transplanting is preferably done on a cool cloudy day. The transplant should be shaded for several days.


VEGETATIVE PROPAGATION


Hardwood Cuttings: These are cuttings of dormant twigs or stems of woody plants. Such a cutting is usually taken in fall or winter. There should be two to four nodes or buds on the stem. This is inserted at an angle in sand, peat moss, or a combination of the two, with only the top bud projecting. It is then left in a cool place where it will not freeze, for the duration of winter. During this time the lower end will heal over or callus. In the spring, it is planted in a sandy soil where it will root readily, especially if the lower buds are removed.


Greenwood Cuttings: These are cuttings made of shoots of plants that are mature enough to break when bent sharply. These cuttings are rooted indoors in sand, gravel, or sandy peat moss almost up to the lower leaves. The lower leaves are often removed or cut to reduce the area exposed to air and so prevent wilting. The cuttings should have some leaves, though, as this will help them to root faster. They should be shaded and have gentle bottom heat. Many herbaceous plants maybe rooted in water. When rooting this way, never place the cuttings in more than 2 inches of water, as deep water does not absorb enough oxygen for good root development. If the cutting wilts, clip the leaves in half to reduce surface area, or placed a jar upside down over it. Rootone, a rooting hormone, may be used to hasten root growth. Plants from which cuttings are to be taken should receive plenty of sunlight for several days before the cutting is made. This builds up the sugar-energy storage and improves the success of the cutting.


Root Cuttings: These may be taken from any plant that produces sprouts from the roots. They are made from roots the thickness of a pencil to 0.5 inch thick, and 3 to 5 inches long. They need not show buds as buds will develop later. They are treated similarly to hardwood cuttings except that in the spring they are placed horizontally in the soil and entirely covered to a depth, of 1 to 2 inches.


Ground Layering: This is a method of rooting shoots while they are still attached to the parent plant. It is often used with plants whose cuttings refuse to root. Select a low-growing branch that can be bent to the ground. Make a slanting cut halfway through the branch at a point about 12 inches from the end, and just below a joint. Then wedge it open with a pebble. Bury the cut in about 4 inches of soil and anchor it with a stone. Stake up the end of the branch so that it extends above the soil line. Keep the soil moist, and carefully dig down to the cut every few months to check if rooting has taken place. Once rooted, the branch may be severed from the parent plant and grown like an ordinary cutting.


Air Layering: This is similar to ground layering but may be done with any branch. Select a branch from pencil size up to one inch thick. Make a slanting cut halfway through the branch. Wedge the cut open with a matchstick and dust the cut lightly with rooting hormone. With thick branches, a ring of bark should be removed instead of cutting the branch. Surround it with a handful of damp peat moss and enclose it with plastic wrap. Tie the wrap at both ends with wire tape. The peat moss should be kept damp. Check it frequently during the summer. In a month or two roots will form and the branch may be severed and treated like an ordinary cutting.


Division: This is the process of dividing plants that have root stocks or tubers, or which produce suckers (young plants rising from the base of the older plants). This may be achieved by breaking up large clumps of plants such as heliotrope, or cutting tubers or rootstocks into sections containing buds, as is done with potatoes or hops. Division is usually performed during the dormant season.


Separation: This is a form of division. It is the process of separating bulblets from the main bulb in the same way garlic is propagated, and setting them out to be new plants.